I regret not posting this as soon as I arrived in Copenhagen, but better late than never. Here is the absolute best backgrounder on COP15:
http://www.iisd.ca/download/pdf/enb12448e.pdf
This is the first of the Earth Negotiations Bulletins published by the International Institute for Sustainable Development. The subsequent bulletins provide day-by-day recaps, and are handed out for free inside the Bella Center where the conference is being held. In short, they is the go-to source that many at the conference are relying on for comprehensive and (relatively :P) accessible reporting of the main developments. However, they're honestly rather technical, so before you delve into the dizzying flurry of subsidiary bodies and ridiculous acronyms, here's a glossary of terms courtesy of the British government:
http://actoncopenhagen.decc.gov.uk/en/ambition/negotiations/a-z-of-cop15-terms/
For more mainstream coverage, the best has been a recent story linked by the New York Times from Climate Wire:
http://www.nytimes.com/cwire/2009/12/14/14-climatewire-copenhagen-talks-enter-final-phase-43362.html
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